Car will not start or cranks slowly
Often a dying battery, a failing starter, or a charging fault, but it can also be a wiring or ignition problem. The slow crank is the clue. We test the whole starting circuit, not just the battery.

Warning lights, dead battery, or gremlins you cannot pin down? Get a real root-cause diagnosis, a fixed quote before any work, and a 12-month warranty. Certified auto electricians, free pickup across Dubai.
A customer came into our Al Quoz bay convinced he needed a new alternator. Two other garages had told him so, and one had already quoted him for it. His battery kept dying overnight. We hooked up a multimeter and did a parasitic draw test instead of just swapping the part, and within an hour we found the real culprit: a boot light that stayed on because of a sticking switch, quietly draining the battery every night. The fix cost him under AED 200, not the alternator job he was bracing for.
That is electrical work in a nutshell. It is the hardest category of car fault to diagnose, because the symptom and the cause are often in completely different places. Anyone can swap parts until something works, but you pay for every wrong guess. At FIXGO, our auto electricians trace the fault to its actual root with proper equipment before we quote you, and we back the repair with a 12-month warranty. We fix the cause, not the symptom.
Electrical pricing is the hardest to pin down, which is exactly why most garages will not show it. The honest answer is that it depends on the fault, and a proper diagnosis comes first. But here are our real starting ranges, before VAT, so you are not walking in blind.
| Job | Price range (AED) | Typical time |
|---|---|---|
| Electrical diagnostics (scan + trace) | from 100 (credited if you proceed) | 30 to 90 min |
| Fuse & relay repair | 100 to 300 | 30 to 60 min |
| Battery test & replacement | 150 to 600 | 30 to 60 min |
| Alternator repair / replacement | 500 to 1,500 | 2 to 4 hours |
| Starter motor repair / replacement | 500 to 1,500 | 2 to 4 hours |
| Wiring & harness repair | 300 to 2,000 | 1 hour to 1 day |
| ECU / module diagnosis & coding | 800 to 3,000 | half to 1 day |
Final price depends on the fault and your car. European and luxury models with complex modules sit at the higher end. The diagnostic comes first and is credited against the repair, and we are typically 30 to 50% below dealer pricing.
Often a dying battery, a failing starter, or a charging fault, but it can also be a wiring or ignition problem. The slow crank is the clue. We test the whole starting circuit, not just the battery.
Headlights that fade at idle or flicker while driving usually point to a failing alternator or a bad earth connection. Left alone, it ends in a no-start.
Windows, locks, or dash lights that work sometimes and not others. These intermittent faults are the hardest to catch and the easiest to misdiagnose. They are almost always a wiring or connector issue.
Other signs worth acting on: fuses that keep blowing (a short somewhere), a burning plastic smell under the dash or bonnet (overheating wiring, stop driving), warning lights that stay on, or keyless entry and ignition that stop responding. Electrical faults rarely fix themselves and often cascade, so one small fault can take out several systems at once.
A third of what we see is battery or charging related, and a surprising amount of "dead battery" cases are actually a hidden drain or a bad earth, not the battery at all. Diagnosing it properly is what saves you from replacing the wrong part.
With electrical faults this is not optional. We trace the actual cause with a multimeter, oscilloscope, and scan tool before quoting. It is the step that stops you paying for guesswork.
A connector, earth, fuse, relay, or section of wiring. Most electrical jobs are a targeted repair once the cause is found, not a big part swap.
A genuinely failed alternator, starter, or module. We fit OEM-grade parts and, for modules, code them to your car so they actually work.
We will never swap an expensive part on a guess. The diagnosis tells us what is actually wrong, so you pay to fix the real fault once.
Heat is the enemy of car electrics, and Dubai has plenty of it. Extreme under-bonnet temperatures bake wiring insulation until it hardens, cracks, and shorts. Connectors corrode faster, especially with the fine desert dust and the humidity near the coast working into every joint. Batteries live a hard life here too: heat is far more damaging to a battery than cold, which is why batteries in Dubai often last only two to three years instead of the four or five they might manage elsewhere. And the more electronics a modern car packs in, the more points there are to fail. All of this is why an annual electrical health check matters more here than in a cooler climate, and why catching a small fault early stops it from cascading into several.
A flickering light, a slow crank, or an occasional glitch. The cheapest point to trace and fix it.
A small parasitic draw or a weak alternator starts flattening the battery. You start jump-starting in the mornings.
The fault spreads. A bad earth or failing module throws errors across multiple systems, and the dash lights up.
The car will not start at all, often at the worst moment, in a car park in the heat. What began as a cheap fix is now a tow and a bigger bill.
WhatsApp, call, or the form on this page. We assign a qualified auto electrician, not a generalist.
Scan tool for fault codes, then a multimeter and oscilloscope to trace the actual fault. We find the cause, we do not part-swap.
You see what is actually wrong, with a written price before anything is done.
Nothing is repaired or replaced until you say yes.
Genuine or OEM-grade parts, wiring repaired properly, and any modules coded to your car so they work.
We confirm the fault is gone before you collect, and hand you a written 12-month warranty.
We handle car electrics across more than 40 makes, from everyday Toyotas and Nissans to the electronics-heavy European cars that defeat a lot of general garages. That includes the complex CAN-bus and module systems on Mercedes, BMW, Audi and Porsche that need manufacturer-level scan tools and proper coding, the body-control and comfort electronics on luxury SUVs like Range Rover, and the straightforward charging and wiring faults on daily drivers. Whatever is glitching, we have the diagnostic kit and the know-how to trace it.
Last spring a Mercedes came in with a fault that two garages had given up on. Random warning lights, the central locking acting on its own, and once the car refused to start in a mall car park. Both previous shops had cleared the codes and sent it away, only for it to come back days later. The owner was ready to believe it was haunted. We did not clear codes and hope. We put it on an oscilloscope and watched the CAN-bus communication while flexing the wiring loom by hand.
The fault showed itself: a chafed wire in the door loom, rubbing through its insulation every time the door opened and shorting intermittently against the frame. Impossible to catch by reading codes alone, obvious once you trace the actual signal. We repaired the loom, sealed it properly, and the car has been faultless since. That is the difference between clearing a code and finding the cause.
Diagnostics start from AED 100 (credited against repair). A battery is AED 150 to 600, an alternator or starter AED 500 to 1,500, and ECU or module work AED 800 to 3,000. You get a fixed quote after diagnosis. See the table above.
Often not the battery itself. It can be a hidden parasitic drain (a light or module staying on), a failing alternator not charging it, a bad earth, or an old battery. We test the whole charging circuit to find which.
Because the symptom and the cause are often in different places. Swapping parts on a guess means paying for every wrong guess. A proper diagnosis finds the real fault so you fix it once.
Dimming or flickering lights, a battery warning light, electrical accessories acting weak, and eventually a dead battery and no-start. We test alternator output directly.
Intermittent faults are almost always wiring or connector problems, a chafed wire, a corroded connector, or a bad earth. They are the hardest to catch, which is why we trace the live signal rather than just read codes.
Yes. We trace shorts, open circuits, and bad earths with proper equipment and repair the wiring to OEM standard, including corrosion and rodent damage.
Yes. We diagnose module faults and, when a module is replaced, code it to your car so it functions correctly. Many general garages cannot do this.
Heat hardens and cracks wiring insulation, corrodes connectors, and shortens battery life to around two to three years. Dust and humidity make it worse. Electrical faults are more common here as a result.
It depends. A burning smell or blowing fuses means stop driving now. Other faults can cascade and leave you stranded, so it is best to get them checked early.
Every electrical repair carries a 12-month warranty on parts and labour. If a warrantied fault recurs, we fix it free.
A real root-cause diagnosis, a fixed quote, and OEM-grade parts, all backed by a 12-month warranty. Stop paying for guesswork. Free pickup across Dubai.